One of the frequently asked questions that we receive here at Plant Enthusiast Towers is how to force Flower bulbs, such as Hyacinths and Paper White Daffodils.
Often people try to force these bulbs with limited success as they do not all come into flower at the same time.
If you follow these instructions carefully then I can assure you that your bulbs will all be the same size and in flower at the same time! (Gulp. Brave Words)
Paper White Daffodils and prepared Hyacinths are both easy to force, look beautiful, and add the most delightful scent to any home.
Forcing bulbs is also a wonderful activity for the whole family, children and grandchildren love the idea of growing Christmas Gifts…
Here is a simple guide to forcing Hyacinths and Paper White Daffodils…
To be in flower for Christmas planting must be completed by mid to late September.
Basically Hyacinths and Paper White Daffodils need around 10 weeks of cool conditions followed by 22 days of warmth and light indoors to bring them into flower.
First of all, buy the very best bulbs you can.
The larger and firmer the bulbs the better.
The Hyacinths need to be labelled as ‘prepared’ to be able to flower for Christmas.
Avoid cheap small bulbs as they will give poor quality small flowers.
When handling the bulbs we always advise people, in particular children, to wear gloves as some people can get a mild skin irritation from the bulbs, which the gloves prevent.
Select some plant pots that are about 3 inches across (even if you want to have a display in a decorative bowl, always start the Hyacinth bulbs individually in pots so you can size grade them later to ensure that all of the bulbs in a container are in flower at the same time!)
Always use a good quality bulb fibre.
Place one Hyacinth or several Daffodils in a pot, but make sure the bulbs do not touch.
Plant them so the nose of the bulb (the pointy top bit) is just above the surface of the compost.
Water well allowing them to drain thoroughly.
Then label the bulbs, at least with the colour, to stop mistakes later!
Now you need to force them…
The two things that bulbs need at this stage are darkness and cool temperatures.
I often use an old wardrobe in the garage, but a dark corner of a shed is fine, as long as it is totally dark and cool the bulbs will be happy. If the shed is not dark enough put a large cardboard box upside down over the bulbs so they stay in the dark. Never use plastic for this, it makes them sweat, and can lead to them rotting.
After around 10 weeks (do check on them every week or two) your bulbs will be ready to be brought into the warm to get them ready to flower.
You will know they are ready to bring into the warm as the roots will have developed and the nose of the bulb will have a bud around 1 – 2 inches long. (The daffodils can have much longer growth that may need a small cane to support it)
Bring the bulbs into a warm room, but out of direct sunlight, and allow the leaves to green up.
After a few days they can be moved to a sunnier brighter windowsill (if such a thing exists in December)
If you seem to be getting a lot of leaves then move them to somewhere cooler.
Check to make sure they have enough water.
After a few days the Hyacinth bulbs will be showing flower buds. You will notice some of these are larger and some are smaller; this is why we potted the bulbs into individual pots.
If you are giving gifts in decorative containers, these should be filled with bulb fibre at this stage.
Select Hyacinth bulbs of the same size and colour (to ensure they all flower at the some time) and pot them up into the container.
If they look as if they are going to flower before Christmas pop them into a cool back bedroom.
If on the other hand they look as if they will never be in flower for Christmas move them into a warmer room.
Then get ready for appreciative smiles as you give beautiful, home-grown gifts this Christmas…